The perfect base for gel nails starts long before the first brush stroke: whether your nails last three weeks or start lifting after a few days is almost always decided during the preparation of the natural nail. In this guide we'll show you step by step how to prep the nail properly, which products you need in which order and which mistakes to avoid.

Why nail prep is so important

Gel only adheres to a clean, grease-free and lightly buffed nail plate. Even a wafer-thin film of oil, leftover cuticle or moisture acts as a separating layer. The result: lifting, air bubbles, chipping gel – and in the worst case a damaged natural nail because the enhancement gets torn off too early. Good preparation protects not only the result but also the health of your nails.

Step 1: Prepare the natural nail

• Remove old polish: Take off regular nail polish with, for example, the acetone-free BNC Nail Polish Remover. If there is still old gel or shellac on the nail, it has to be removed properly – find out how in How to remove gel nails. Important: removers often leave a light conditioning film, so the nail will be thoroughly cleansed later on.
• Wash and dry your hands well: Then wait a few minutes, because a nail soaked with water expands and contracts again later.
• Shorten and shape the nails: File the desired shape – always in one direction so the nail edge doesn't split.
• Push back the cuticles: Gently push back the cuticles with a BNC gel spatula / cuticle pusher. The almost invisible skin stuck to the nail plate (the true cuticle) is especially important: it has to be removed completely, otherwise the gel will lift exactly there.

Step 2: Buff and clean the nail surface

• Remove the shine: Evenly mattify the natural shine of the nail plate with a fine buffer, for example the BNC buffer white 100/100. Work without pressure – the nail should only become matte, not thin. Don't forget the side areas and the area near the cuticle.
• Remove dust: Brush off filing dust with a soft dust brush.
• Cleanse: Wipe the nail with a lint-free pad and BNC Cleaner Clear, which degreases and disinfects natural nails. From now on, don't touch the nail plate with your fingers.

Step 3: Dehydrator, primer and base gel

1. Dehydrator (nail prep): BNC Nail-Prep removes excess moisture and natural oils from the nail plate. It is applied before the primer and air-dries in approx. 30 seconds.
2. Primer (bonding agent): The acid-free BNC Primer Ultra Bond is gentle on the natural nail, also suitable for beginners and air-dries in approx. 30 seconds – no curing under the lamp needed. For stubborn adhesion problems, the acid-based BNC B5 Acid Primer can boost adhesion further. Apply primer sparingly and only to the natural nail, never to the skin.
3. Bonding or base gel: Massage in a thin layer, keep a small gap from the cuticle and side walls and cap the free edge. The BNC Masterline UV/LED base bonding gel clear has a thin viscosity and, according to the manufacturer, cures in 60 seconds under UV/LED light or 120 seconds in a UV lamp.

To cure, you need a suitable lamp, for example the BNC UV/LED lamp 26 watts, which cures LED gels, UV gels and UV nail polishes. We explain which lamp suits you in UV or LED lamp? Buying guide.

Nail prep, primer, base gel: what does what?

These three products are often confused, but they have different jobs:

We explain the differences in even more detail in Cleaner, primer, nail prep, remover – what to use when?. You'll find all bonding agents in the primer & nail prep category, cleansers under cleaner & acetone and base gels under base gels.

After the base: build-up, finish and care

Depending on your technique, the base is followed by colour gel or builder gel. Finally, the enhancement is protected with a finish or sealing gel – for example the HEMA-free BNC finish gel high gloss without sticky layer, which needs no cleanser afterwards. If you use a finish with a sticky layer, wipe it off with cleaner after curing.

After the finish comes the care: nail oil keeps cuticles and natural nails supple and makes the nail more flexible. Only apply it once you've finished, never before – otherwise the gel won't adhere.

Typical prep mistakes

• Cuticle on the nail plate not completely removed
• Nail touched with the fingers after cleansing
• Too much filing – the natural nail becomes thin and sensitive
• Primer or gel applied to the skin
• First layer too thick, so it doesn't cure all the way through

If your gel nails still lift, our guide Gel nails and shellac lifting will help. For a quick overview of typical problems, visit our page Gel problems & solutions.

FAQ: The perfect base for gel nails

Do I always need a primer?

With nails that bond very well, you can sometimes do without, but a primer adds extra security. For most users, an acid-free primer is the gentle standard solution.

In which order do I apply nail prep and primer?

First nail prep (dehydrator), then primer, then bonding or base gel. Let both liquids air-dry each time.

How much should I file the natural nail?

Only enough to remove the shine completely. A fine buffer is enough – coarse files don't belong on the natural nail.

Can I use nail oil before the gel?

No. Oil on the nail plate prevents adhesion. Nail oil should only go onto cuticles and nails after the finish.

Why does my gel always lift at the cuticle?

Usually the cuticle wasn't completely removed or the gel touched the skin. Leave a small gap to the cuticle when applying.