The Nail Design Glossary A–Z explains the most important terms around gel, acrylic, shellac and nail art – short, easy to understand and with links to matching products and guides. Simply type a term into the search or click a letter.

Having a specific problem with your gel nails? Our overview Gel Problems & Solutions will help.

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0–9

1-phase gel

A gel that combines base, build and seal in a single product. Ideal for beginners and quick sets, e.g. BNC Profi Gel or other one-phase gels.

3-phase system

A nail set built with three specialised gels: base gel for adhesion, builder gel for shape and strength, finish gel for shine and protection. It offers maximum control but takes a little more practice. See base gels, builder gels and finish gels.

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A

Acrylic

A nail enhancement system made from acrylic powder and acrylic liquid that hardens in the air – no lamp needed. Acrylic is very strong and works well for long nails. More in our comparison acrylic or gel nails and in the acrylic category.

Acrylic liquid

The liquid (monomer) that is mixed with acrylic powder to form a workable bead. Depending on the liquid, the mixture sets faster or slower – see our acrylic liquids, e.g. BNC Acrylic Liquid Clear.

Apex

The highest point of the nail enhancement, usually in the area of the stress point. A well-placed apex distributes pressure and prevents the nail from breaking at the transition zone.

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B

Baby boomer

A French look with a soft gradient from nude or pink to white. Learn how in baby boomer & French nails; a good base is e.g. BNC Base One UV Gel Cover.

Base coat

The first layer on the natural nail when using polish or shellac. It ensures adhesion and protects the nail from staining. Why it matters: base coat and top coat.

BIAB / builder gel

BIAB stands for Builder in a Bottle: a builder gel that is applied from the bottle like polish and strengthens the natural nail. Everything about it in builder gel & BIAB; a matching product is e.g. BNC Professional Builder Gel Clear.

Blooming gel

A self-levelling effect gel on which dabbed-on colour gels spread softly before curing. This creates watercolour, flower or marble looks – e.g. with BNC Blooming Gel.

Bonding gel (base gel)

The first, usually thin gel layer in the 3-phase system that bonds the natural nail to the enhancement – e.g. BNC Bonding Gel Violet or other base gels.

Buffer

A soft sanding block for smoothing and buffing the nail surface. The higher the grit, the finer the result – see files & buffers.

Buffing

Gently roughening the nail plate with a buffer or fine file so that gel or shellac adheres better. Only the shine is removed, not the nail itself.

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C

Camouflage gel

A semi-opaque, skin-toned gel that hides irregularities of the natural nail and visually lengthens the nail bed. The difference to make-up gel is explained in make-up gel vs. camouflage gel; see make-up/camouflage.

Capping the free edge

Sealing the free edge by also brushing each layer over the tip. This stops water from getting under the enhancement – an important protection against lifting (see gel problems & solutions).

Cleaner

A cleansing liquid that degreases the nail and removes the sticky layer after curing, e.g. BNC Cleaner Clear. Which product you need when: cleaner, primer, nail prep & remover.

Construction gel

A usually medium to thick viscosity gel used to build the shape, length and strength of the enhancement. It sits between base and finish gel – see our builder gels.

Curing

The process in which gel or UV polish hardens under UV or LED light (polymerisation). The correct curing time is stated in each product description.

Curing lamp

The UV, LED or UV/LED lamp under which gel and shellac cure. Which one suits you: UV or LED lamp?; see curing lamps.

Cuticle

The fine skin at the base of the nail that protects it from germs. Before a set it is gently pushed back, afterwards it is cared for with nail oil.

Cuticle pusher

A tool for pushing back the cuticle and removing fine skin from the nail plate, e.g. the BNC Gel Spatula / Cuticle Pusher.

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D

Dappen dish

A small glass or plastic dish for acrylic liquid or powder, e.g. the BNC Dappen Dish glass container. It keeps your stock bottle clean.

Dehydrator / nail prep

Removes moisture and oil from the nail plate and creates the basis for good adhesion. It is applied before the primer, e.g. BNC Nail-Prep (Dehydrator).

Dispersion layer (sticky layer)

The sticky layer that many gels leave after curing. Between layers it stays on, at the end it is removed with cleaner – or you use a no-wipe gel such as BNC High-Gloss Finish Gel without sticky layer.

Drill bit

An attachment for the nail drill used to remove, shape or take off material. Bits come in different shapes, materials and grits – more in nail drill bits explained, see nail drills and bits.

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E

Effect gel

Umbrella term for gels with a special look, such as glitter, shimmer or glow-in-the-dark gels. Browse our effect gels.

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F

Fibreglass gel

A builder gel with fine glass fibres that is particularly strong. According to its description, BNC Fibreglass Gel Clear is HEMA-free and produces hardly any noticeable heat when curing; more under fibreglass gels.

Finish gel

The final layer of the enhancement for shine and protection – also called sealing gel or top gel. How to choose the right one: sealing gel for gel nails; see finish gels.

Free edge

The part of the nail that extends beyond the fingertip. It is capped with every layer so that the enhancement stays sealed.

French manicure

The classic with a natural-looking nail bed and a white tip. French gels such as BNC French Gel White help you create a clean line; tutorial in baby boomer & French nails.

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G

Gel brush

A brush with synthetic bristles for applying and shaping gel – flat, oval or angled. Compare types in acrylic, gel and silicone brushes and browse our brushes.

Grit

The number shows how coarse or fine a file is: low values such as 80/100 are coarse, values from 180 upwards suit the natural nail. More in which nail file suits me?

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H

HEMA

Hydroxyethyl methacrylate, a common gel ingredient that can trigger allergies after repeated skin contact. What HEMA-free means: what does HEMA-free mean?

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I

Inhibition layer

The technical term for the dispersion layer: oxygen in the air inhibits curing of the top gel layer, which is why it stays sticky.

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L

Lifting

When the enhancement detaches from the natural nail, usually at the cuticle or the sides. Causes and solutions: gel nails and shellac lifting; helpful e.g. BNC No-Lines Lifting Minimizer.

Lint-free wipes

Lint-free cellulose pads used to apply cleaner and remove the sticky layer without leaving fibres behind – e.g. BNC lint-free wipes.

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M

Make-up gel

An opaque, skin-toned gel for visually lengthening the nail bed that covers discoloration and unevenness – e.g. BNC Make Up Gel Light Pink.

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N

Nail bed

The pink skin tissue beneath the nail plate. Make-up or camouflage gels can make it look longer – see make-up/camouflage.

Nail form

A self-adhesive form placed under the free edge to extend the nail with gel or acrylic without a tip – e.g. BNC Horseshoe Nail Form Roll.

Nail glue

A special glue used to fix tips onto the natural nail, e.g. BNC Tip Glue in brush bottle.

Nail oil

A care oil for cuticles and natural nails that can be used daily and keeps dry cuticles supple. Scents and sizes under nail oils.

Nail plate

The visible, hard part of the nail made of keratin. It is cleaned, buffed and dehydrated before every set. If it is thin or brittle, read brittle nails – causes and measures.

Nail wall

The skin folds that frame the nail at the sides and the base. Gel should never touch them, otherwise lifting and skin irritation may follow.

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O

Ombré

A soft gradient between two or more colours, often dabbed on with a sponge – e.g. with the BNC Ombre Sponge Tool.

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P

Pinching

Squeezing the sides of the enhancement shortly before or after curing to create a narrow C-curve. Helpful tools: BNC Pinch Sticks and BNC Pinch Clamp.

Polyacryl gel

A hybrid of gel and acrylic that is easy to shape and cures under the lamp. According to its description, BNC Polyacryl Gel Clear is vegan and HEMA-free; more under polyacryl gels.

Primer

An adhesion promoter between natural nail and enhancement. Acid-free primers such as BNC Primer Ultra Bond are gentler, acid primers such as BNC B5 Acid Primer give particularly strong adhesion. More: B5 Acid Primer vs. Nail Prep.

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R

Refill / fill-in

After about three to four weeks the grown-out area at the cuticle is filled in again and the shape is corrected. The existing enhancement is filed thin and topped up.

Remover

A solvent for removing shellac, UV polish and soak-off products, e.g. BNC Shellac Remover with Lanolin. More under removers.

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S

Shellac / gel polish

A polish that cures under the lamp, stays glossy for weeks and can be soaked off. Everything about it in what is shellac?; shades under shellac / UV polish.

Smile line

The curved line between the nail bed and the white tip of a French manicure. An even, symmetrical smile line is the hallmark of a clean French – see French gels.

Soak-off

Describes products that can be soaked and removed with remover or acetone instead of being filed off. Handy for this: BNC Remover Pads. More in how do I remove my gel nails?

Spider gel

An elastic effect gel that can be pulled into fine threads – ideal for line and web designs, e.g. BNC Spider Gel Black.

Stamping

A nail art technique in which a design is transferred from a stamping plate to the nail using a stamper and scraper – e.g. with the BNC Stamping Set and BNC Stamping Polish White. More under brush painting & stamping.

Stress point

The transition zone between nail bed and free edge where the nail is under the most strain. The enhancement needs enough product here – e.g. with the non-runny BNC Stress Point Builder Gel.

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T

Tip

A pre-shaped plastic extension glued onto the natural nail and then covered with gel or acrylic – e.g. BNC Classic Clear Tips. More under nail extension / repair.

Top coat

The final protective layer for polish and shellac that adds shine and durability. For shellac, this is done e.g. by BNC Shellac Sealer Base & Top, which also works as a base.

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V

Viscosity

Describes how runny or firm a gel is: low-viscosity gels flow easily and suit base and sealing layers, high-viscosity gels hold their shape and are ideal for building.

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W

Wavelength

Indicates in nanometres (nm) which light a lamp emits. Gel and lamp must match; according to its description, the BNC 26 Watt UV/LED Lamp works with 365 and 405 nm for UV and LED gels.

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