Perfect nails with acrylic powder are easy to achieve when preparation, mix ratio and technique are right. Acrylic powder is a popular material for long-lasting, strong and versatile nail designs – from a natural overlay to long extensions. In this quick guide you'll learn what you need and how to create a beautiful acrylic set step by step.

How acrylic works

An acrylic enhancement combines two components: an acrylic powder (polymer) and an acrylic liquid (monomer). When you pick up powder with a wet brush, a workable bead forms, which you sculpt on the nail. The mixture then cures by itself in the air – you don't need a UV/LED lamp. Find out how acrylic differs from gel in Acrylic nails or gel nails – which is better?

What you need

• Acrylic powder: for example the transparent BNC acrylic powder Clear or the peach-coloured BNC acrylic powder Cover Peach, which conceals small imperfections. According to the descriptions, both are HEMA- and HPMA-free. You'll find more colours under acrylic powder.
• Acrylic liquid: BNC Acrylic Liquid Easy cures slowly in about 4–5 minutes, giving you more time to sculpt – ideal for getting started. BNC Acrylic Liquid Clear dries faster and is designed for advanced users and professionals. All liquids are available under acrylic liquids.
• Dappen dish: a small container for the liquid, for example the BNC glass dappen dish. Powder and liquid are not stirred together in it – the mixture only forms on the brush.
• Acrylic brush: a good natural-hair brush holds plenty of liquid and releases it evenly, such as the BNC Kolinsky acrylic brush size 14 with protective cap. Read more about choosing a brush in our brush comparison.
• File and buffer: for shaping and smoothing.
• Primer: for adhesion to the natural nail.
• Finish: polishing block or a finish gel for shine.
• Nail oil: to care for the cuticles at the end.

Accessories such as dappen dishes, brushes and nail forms are available in the acrylic accessories category.

Step-by-step guide

1. Prepare the nails

• Clean: Remove old polish, wash your hands and dry them well.
• Shape: Shorten and file the natural nails and push back the cuticles. Remove the invisible skin on the nail plate completely.
• Buff and cleanse: Remove the shine with a fine buffer, brush off the dust and dehydrate the nail.
• Apply primer: Sparingly and only on the natural nail, for example BNC B5 Acid Primer, which is suitable for gel and acrylic enhancements. Alternatively, there is BNC Acrylic Liquid Perfect Primerless with built-in primer – then no extra bonding agent is needed.

You'll find a detailed prep guide in The perfect base. For an extension, apply tips or a nail form now – we explain which method suits you in Nail extensions: tips or forms?

2. Pick up and apply the bead

• Wet the brush: Dip the brush into the liquid and wipe it lightly on the edge of the dappen dish.
• Form a bead: Draw the brush tip through the powder until a bead forms. It should look glossy and moist but not run. Too wet: the bead flows into the cuticle. Too dry: it becomes crumbly and adheres poorly.
• Work in zones: Classically, place the first bead on the free edge or extension, the second in the middle (the apex, the highest and strongest point) and a smaller, wetter bead near the cuticle – with a small gap to the skin.
• Sculpt: Spread the beads with light brush strokes and let them blend into each other. Clean the brush in liquid in between and blot it on a tissue.

3. Cure, file and smooth

• Let it cure: Acrylic cures in the air. Once it's fully cured, it makes a “clicking” sound when you tap it lightly with the brush handle.
• Shape: File the side lines, free edge and surface into shape. Learn more about suitable grits in Which nail file is best for me?
• Smooth: Refine the surface with a buffer and remove all dust thoroughly.

4. Seal and care

• Finish: For shine, polish the acrylic with a polishing block or seal it with a finish gel. According to its description, the HEMA-free BNC finish gel high gloss without sticky layer is also suitable for sealing acrylic nails and is cured under the lamp.
• Care: Finally, massage nail oil into the cuticles.

Working safely with acrylic

• Ensure good ventilation – acrylic liquid has a strong smell of its own.
• Avoid skin contact with liquid and uncured product. Material that touches the skin can cause irritation and lifting.
• Don't pour leftover liquid from the dappen dish back into the original bottle, and close the bottles tightly after work.
• After use, clean the brush in liquid, reshape it and store it lying flat with its protective cap.

FAQ: Nails with acrylic powder

Do I need a UV lamp for acrylic?

No. Acrylic powder and liquid cure in the air. You only need a lamp if you use a finish gel at the end.

Why is my acrylic bead crumbly?

Then it's too dry – there wasn't enough liquid in the brush. Dip the brush deeper and wipe it off less.

Why does the acrylic run into the cuticle?

The bead is too wet or placed too close to the skin. Use a little more powder and leave a small gap to the cuticle.

How long do acrylic nails last?

With good preparation they last several weeks. As the natural nail grows out, an infill is recommended after about three to four weeks.